View Full Version : 3.7V Lipo for 1:12 and 1:10 pan cars
2fast4u
10-29-2008, 08:00 PM
I have been seeing some talk on other r/c boards about 3.7V LiPO to replace 4.8V in a year or two. To me it makes better sense use a battery that fits than trying to redesign everything in a car for a 7.4V lipo. There are two things are lacking. LiPO's that fit the 4-cell battery tray and 3.7V to 6V BEC moduals. I am sure in time both will exsist.
So does MaxAmps having any plans to make a 3.7V lipo?
I was looking at the dimensions of the CheckPoint Saddle Packs 70mm x 47mm x 30mm. For 1:12 that wouldn't fit because of center shock. For 1:10 pancar oval it would since nothing is above.
Could a max 92mm x 47mm x 22mm battery be made to clear the center shock and maybe a taller pack for the Amp craving oval guys. :D
I might just return to oval and 1:12 if LiPO's were used in Stock racing. I tired the 21.5 Lipo and it was just as fast(er) as my 13.5 4-cell and fast means more tires which means more $$$$.
OvalDude99
10-29-2008, 10:48 PM
I asked that same question. I have been reading about a single cell lipo with a hard case I believe from SMC but don't quote me on that. The answer I got from Jason was to call and they could do them as a special order, but I haven't checked into it as of yet. I would go that way in a heart beat if and when they become available but only with the hard case..
Somebody suggested 7.4 volt for oval but I am wanting something for 12th scale on road and my car will not take a battery that big.I already use a small receiver pack for 12th mod so that is not a problem.
The realy cool part is no balancing worries.
2fast4u
10-30-2008, 02:57 PM
I like that oval dude,
Using the same pack for both 1:12 and oval.
My local track does oval and road course on the same night. If 3.7V was around I could just buy two LiPO packs and give up sedan for 1:12. It would cut my parts bag in half since most of my 1:12 hardware is compatible with oval. I got back into Sedan becuase of LiPO. It saves me the hassle of having multiple packs and having a flat pack because of a dead cell or cells.
I like road course because I like driving.
I run oval becuase it teaches me about setup.
OvalDude99
10-30-2008, 03:10 PM
I am going to have to agree with you on that. I started out with just the oval thing, but got into on road simply because at one point that all their was. I learned that running on road made me a better driver, and the experience with oval helped with set up. Having to only tote 2 batteries to the track would be great, we are going to have to keep an eye on this single cell lipo thing and hope for the best.
2fast4u
11-04-2008, 07:53 PM
I guess I'm the opposite. I started in On-Road and started Oval because no one else was running on-road. This was the time that IB4200's were poping or going dead without notice. Once sedan dropped, 1:12 did too at my local track. Traded a E-maxx for a 10L3 and tried to keep up ever since.
Now every time I drive my Sedan, the car has a Push. I guess I just got used to having my dual rate at 20% and my servo speed at 30% and my oval car very very loose.
OvalDude99
11-04-2008, 09:07 PM
When I first started running oval, we were using 1200Mah batteries in 6 cell stock. Nobody ran modified back then because the batteries wouldn't live that long and by the time you geared them to run 4 minutes, the stock motored cars were faster.When things got to going to fast and somebody suggested 4 cell, we thought their was no way it would work. It amazes me how far things have come in that 20 years. We now have brushless, lipo and I have seen 5000 mah nimh batteries. I have been racing nitro in the summer and love it. Both on the dirt oval and off road.
I do hope someone does this single cell lipo and hopefully soon.
Metallover
04-18-2009, 03:13 PM
You can get induvidual elite cells at their online store. Other then that your best bet is to rewire a 2s pack into 2 1s packs. Be careful however, because the tabs on some packs are very thin and some packs claiming to have copper tabs just have the copper crimped on to a usual aluminum tab. If you end up soldering onto an aluminum tab make sure to do it right.
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