Delta peak for TQ 4.4K

[jkelly2900]

For the 4400's, what is the best setting on the delta peak detection? I've read on one of my old cheap batteries that it should not be higher than 8mv per cell. Is this good? Should I increase or decrease the mv setting or just leave it there?
Thanks

[Rick Findley]

I am sorry, I have sat here for a 1/2 hour trying to recall delta peak setting and the reasons why. Something to do with controlling batteries "false peaking". Duh!

I looked at my chargers, 2 are set at 5mv per cell. The other two are just factory default settings. Haven't had problems with batteries in years. Just wear them out!

Maybe someone else will chime in and refresh my memory.

[fastpede]

You want to set the delta peak mV setting so that it stops the charge when your cells reach 110-120 degrees Fahrenheit. It's best to monitor your cells with a cheap temp gauge or a temp probe while they are charging. I usually set my IB4200 6-cell pack to a 10-20mV cutoff during a full charge, and 30mV for a re-peak.

[jkelly2900]

Thanks. The reason I ask is because that kind of info does not come with the chargers or the assembled packs that Max sells. The only source I've found so far is on the back of some old low capacity packs that recommended that the delta peak not be set higher than 8mV.
Thanks again.

[cartronicshn]

Great thread, i would like to add that maybe there should be a sticky thread on each of the battery types forums, with instructions for properly charging, discharging, storing, cycling, etc. Basically general how to's for you batteries.

[jkelly2900]

I agree with you. People should have all the info they need in order to keep their battery's strong and in working operation for a long time. I even asked one of the guys at MAXAMP's, you know, the guys that build and sell you the batteries, and among other things, I was told "I don't know what to tell you". I was very impressed with these guy untill this little incident. Shouldn't they know? But anyway, I can go on about this but I won't.

[cartronicshn]

I hear you, it's important for people to learn how to give their packs maintanance, also how to use batteries correctly in correct applications(bashers generally need longer runtime and might not need matched cells for their rides, while racers probably won't need 5000mah batts and more matched cell types for quickers lap times)

[Rick Findley]

Battery Maintenance discussions have been around since I can remember back to the days of yore when Sanyo RC2000 where the hottest thing on the market. Some pretty heated arguments have ensued. But they all agree with the following steps. Then someone will mention there Turbo 35 and its starts all over again.

Maintenance hasn't changed...

Discharge the pack to 5.4 volts using bulb discharge string with an automatic cut-off.

Tray them and bring them to 0.9 volts per cell.

Then charge them at: For Nicad's 2.5 times the capacity (2.5 x 2000mAH = 5.0A) NiMihs charge at 4.0 to 5.5 amps.

(At that time Novak said in their instructions to "Set Delta Peak to 4 mV/Cell to avoid overheating." For GP3300 X-Treme RC Cars Magazine in their April 2003 edition said Delta Peak should be set at "10 mV/Cell.")

Voltage Threshold, Charge Rates and Battery Temperatures vary from manufacturer, charger manufacturers and who you ask on the forums and at the track.

For me I found the above "maintenance" works, with a caviate of "you want runtime charge at a the lower rate, for punch charge at the higher rate".

When the GP3300's, hit the market that we could make runtime and have the "punch" we felt we needed for our mods. Since then I quit doing the "funky" stuff with my chargers and maintained my batteries to this "learned standard" and charged them at 5 to 5.5 volts!

I am unable to give anyone the tech terms for what changing the voltage threshold does.

With a Peak Charger, as the battery reaches its fully charged condition or peaks, the voltage begins to waiver. The voltage threshold "monitors" this voltage waiver and stops the charge. The higher the setting the bigger the voltage waiver, the more the battery heats up and controls "false peaking" (a condition found in older and used batteries because of their ever changing internal resistances).

[cartronicshn]

Hey Rick, i take any advice you can give:), but what i was getting at was mostly general rules for different batts, nimh you have aa, aaa, which i wouldn't charge at over .6amps, how about the 2/3 batts maintanance and all that kind of stuff.

[Rick Findley]

Having lived with "trying" make batteries last as long as possible, being a tight-wad so to speak.

I have dead shorted, zapped, slow charged, pulse charged, reverse pulse charges, step charged, trickled charged even got them to go into "reverse polarity". Not to mention have them vent, melt the shrink wrap off and blow up! Rebuilt packs... scared the dogs ... have my wife complain that "her curio cabinet was not the place to store my batteries"!

I wussed out of that never ending chore and came up with this.

Sub-C NiMih's - as I specified in my previous post.

AA for my transmitter, use them until my transmitter starts giving me a low voltage warning and charge them with Duratrax 9.6 2-3 hour charger through the radio hook-up and throw them away after a year of service.

Nitro car/trucks stuff, AAA's I've never messed with.

Replace any others.

Best thing I have done for myself is switch to MaxAmp Lipos.

IMHO batteries have gotten to a point that its dollar/time wise to replace them when they know longer do what I want them too.

Have you check-out my post in Battery Graphs? http://www.nitrokillers.com/showthread.php?p=2541#post2541. It works pretty good using stuff I have on hand instead of buying the $$$$ stuff. I've lowered my standards at the 5 minute mark though. The batteries I had that didn't measure up to my "standards", I gave away to a friend of mine to power his starter for Nitro's. He had other ideas, put them in his Dominator and cleaned my clock! Oh well, live and learn. LOL!